A very relaxing trip to Paxos, Greece and Tolis Grill House
After some hectic times I went to Stockholm for a conference. I managed to get out in the archipelago and visit my friend who lives on the stunningly beautiful island of Utö. You can read all about it here. I had just had three nights of virtually no sleep in Stockholm and was starting to feel quite worn. Luckily I was on my way to Greece for a much needed holiday so the three flights would very much be worth it. Dusty and feeling quite grubby having been seated next to a very nice but talkative woman I was very happy to look out and see the Greek mountains below us and the clouds. I was amusing myself wondering if I had seen a glimpse of Olympus but I highly doubt it.
We flew in to Corfu just as the sun was setting and I could feel my tired shoulders starting to relax.
The bags came quickly and it was only a short ride to the hotel where I was meeting my friends. I dumped the bag and we headed out in Corfu town for something to eat and a glass (or two) of wine. Corfu was the start and the stop of our journey and the following day we took the ferry to the island of Paxos. The history of Paxos and Corfu is closely linked and strategically placed it has been invaded on and off since well before BC. There are traces of various cultures and the history when reading about it is divided up in eras of ancient, Roman, Norman, Venetian, the Ottoman and French.
Today it might be the Venetian culture that is the most prominent as they built much of the infrastructure. The also had a big program planting olive trees, still here today. The olive trees are large, impressively tall and gnarly. Olive oil from Paxos is delicious and I could see that for the size of the island, olives are plentiful. The whole island is very green and flowers were in bloom everywhere.
Paxo offered just what we needed, relaxation, peace and quiet. The first thing we did was to have naps all the time. We headed to Loggos, a small village in a cove. It is off the beaten track and off season you can get the most amazing bargains. There are quite a few restaurants and bars. It was early in the season and everyone was clearly gearing up for the season ahead.
It is lovely to have a stroll in the harbour and why not have a glass of Greek wine and a small snack?
The views are postcard pretty and I woke up early one morning and could not resist getting my camera out to capture the sunrise.
We saw different trucks every day come to offer various goods. This day it was terracotta urns.
After trying a few of the restaurants we all agreed that Grill House Tolis was our favorite. It looks just like a Greek taverna but perhaps a little more modern. It was originally the wafts coming from the kitchen that drew us in, meat slowly cooking over charcoal. I have already fulfilled my quota of Greek salad and grilled squid and the carnivore in me wanted some of that meat!
We didn’t know what to expect but the restaurant is beautifully done.
It came with some grilled bread we all tucked in to straight away. I had been brushed with olive oil and heated on the grill, delicious.
Service is great and if you are lucky you will be served by Katerina who makes you feel as welcome as a friend over for dinner. It didn’t take long for the food to arrive.I was in a very happy with a place of grilled pork and a side salad of tomato and cucumber.
I would recommend this restaurant to anyone who visits Loggos, it is just off the harbor and very authentic and delicious. Paxos is a small island and Loggos is a quiet village but very relaxing, a perfect place to put your feet up and chill out. We were very happy that we had come here and feeling rested and ready for anything we went for the last leg of our trip to Corfu town. Waving goodbye at Paxos harbour.
The only thing I saw that I would have liked to eat here was sea urchins. The whole of the harbor was full of them. I don’t know if there might be a season for them, I must look it up but I have never seen so many of them. I will save that for another trip.