A mighty, meaty ragu
I used to be a season ticket holder to a great rugby team, the Harlequins. I always enjoyed going to watch them play and if the weather got too cold I could buy mulled wine by the flask. It would always warm me up nicely and take the edge of the cold. Sadly I had to give the ticket up when we moved, it is just too far to travel and the thought of having hours of (quite regularly)a dysfunctional train journey home put me off. I enjoy rugby but I don’t watch it on TV and therefore there can be a bit of a clash in our household.
Due to bad planning it turned out that we had invited guests for dinner right when England was playing Samoa. Even worse was that the game started just as we sat down to eat! Well it was a compromise in a democratic spirit and the game was on TV but without the sound. Not ideal but it didn’t stop the flow of conversation.
Luckily I had planned to make a manly dish, very suitable to go with a game of rugby! In order to make this I went to the butcher, the shop was empty. I was so pleased as my list was a bit long. The Black Pig Butcher sells all parts of the animal and they have so many delicious and unusual cuts I always get carried away. This time was no different, I had to get some skirt steak, perfect for the freezer. The butcher has the best brisket and I was lucky as she has plenty. I got some of that for low and slow cooking. A few pigs cheeks caught my eye so I got some of those. She had delicious lardons and what ragu won’t benefit from some of those?! The shin of beef looked perfect, a bone for flavour and a few chicken livers finished off my shopping round. By this time there was quite a few people waiting behind me trying to figure out how all that meat would make a ragu! Needless to say I left with a smile, very pleased with myself. The ragu takes a long time to cook but it mainly looks after itself and it is very worth while. Don’t be put off by the amount of ingredients, it is easily adaptable to what you have at home as long as you have a meat that requires low and slow cooking.
As it was so cold I decided to kick off the dinner with a soup. I had some stock left from my lobster bisque stock. I couldn’t get another lobster so I bought a crab and prawns and used that, with the lobster stock for a seafood bisque. I will never throw away lobster or crab shells again, they hold so much flavour. I cooked it the same way as the lobster bisque but with crab and prawns instead of lobster meat and it was just as delicious.
I had bought more prawns, I had some good eaters coming so thought I would make a small additional starter.
Prawns and avocado with rye crutons
preparation time 10 minutes
cooking time 0 minutes
serves 6 as a starter
- 2 pint of shell on prawns
- 1 large avocado
- 1 garlic clove
- 1 tbsp mustard, I didn’t have any smooth mustard so I used grainy
- 1 tbsp white wine vinegar
- 1 egg yolk
- about 1/5 dl or 3/4 cup rapeseed oil
Rye bread crutons
- 1 slice dark rye bread
- 1 tbsp sesame seeds
- 1 tbsp oil
- salt & pepper
Mix all the ingredients except the rapeseed oil.
Add the oil slowly whilst whisking. Add oil until the mayonnaise is firming up and soft peaks are forming.
Cut the rye bread in to small cubes. Heat the oil, add the bread and sesame seeds when the oil is hot. Pan fry crispy and taste with salt and pepper. Set aside until serving.
Cube the avocado, chop the dill, cut each prawn in three and mix with the mayonnaise along with the garlic. Taste with salt and pepper. Spoon up and sprinkle over the crutons.
Mighty meaty ragu
preparation time 20 minutes
cooking time 4 hr + 30 minutes or until the brisket is fall apart tender
oven 160C or 350F
- brisket, 600 gr 21 oz
- shin, 200 gr or 7 oz
- lardons, 100 gr or 3.5 oz
- 2 chicken livers
- 1/2 dl or 1/4 cup milk
- 1 pork cheek, appr0x 70 gr or 2.6 oz
- 1 carrot
- 2 onions
- 1 celery stalk
- 2 bayleaves
- 1 tsp black and green pepper corns, mixed
- 2 tbsp smoked paprika
- 5 dl or 2.5 cup passata
- 4 dl or 2 cups beef stock
- 1 tbsp tomato puree
- 2 chipotle chiles
- 1 tsp cumin seeds
- 2 bayleaves
- 4 dried shitake mushrooms, soak in 2 dl or 1 cup hot water.
- 1 sprig of thyme
- 2 tsp salt
- Last add 1-2 dl 1/2 – 1 cup of water
Peel and chop the carrot together with the onion and the celery. Bring water to boil and pour over the shitake mushrooms.
Cut parts of the brisket small and some in to larger squares. Remove the gristle from the shin and cut up the meat. Set the chicken livers aside for later.
Brown the meat including the bone in hot oil in an overproof pan. Add the chopped vegetables and let cook for a few minutes. Add the tomato purée, the thyme, bay leaves, cook another few minutes. Chop the chipotle chiles rough and add along with the smoked paprika and the pepeprcorns. Pour over the passata, beef stock and the shitake mushrooms and the water they soaked in along with 1 tsp of salt. Place in the oven and leave for 4 hours. Check from time to time that the meat doesn’t go dry, add more water if necessary.
The ragu is done when the brisket is fall apart tender. Remove the bone and the larger parts of the brisket. Pull the brisket, remove the meat from the bone and add back to the ragu.Place on the cooker and bring to a simmer. Add the chicken liver and cook through. Remove the chicken liver and mash in to cold milk before adding the mixture back in the pan. Taste with salt and pepper as necessary and simmer for another 15-20 minutes. I add more water, about 2 dl or 1 cup before serving to loosen it up.
I thought about serving this with pasta but the local cauliflowers on sale are still so plentiful I opted for a cauliflower and potato mash.
I poached some carrots in orange juice and fresh ginger and served them al dente for texture.
I made an onion and tomato salad for freshness and served up.
The ragu went down a treat along with the mash and was consumed , lasting longer than the rugby game, washed down with red wine along with vivid discussions of all topics that social etiquette claims we should avoid, politics and religion. I am pleased to say no one fell out or even raised their voice, phew!
The long cooking time was worth while, the ragu was very rich, very meaty and well, I guess a bit manly in a very edible way!